1st Post - Sauerkraut!

Very excited to start my new food blog. I have to credit the name to my dear friend, the incomparable Michael Patrick Gaffney. You can expect to see here mostly articles about food, nutrition, food politics, and Bay Area eatin's - but since I'm also a stage and independent film actor you'll see some of that as well.

But today I really want to talk about sauerkraut. We've all heard about the importance of beneficial bacteria for our digestive systems. You've probably also heard that it's best to get all of your nutrition from food sources, as opposed to pills. I do think that if you're on antibiotics or have any issues with skin, urinary tract, or candida, that taking a probiotic supplement is probably a good idea.* For most of us though, I think we should get our healthy bugs from all the wonderful fermented foods available to us, just as humans have traditionally around the world for centuries. Or millenia. Or, um, forever. I actually once had a friend who was studying Anthropology at CAL Berkeley tell me about primates in the wild eating fermented fruit off the jungle floor. She said to me "you have all these monkeys getting their buzz on all day long!" Ha ha.

Other good sources include yogurt, kombucha, kefir, kim chee, fermented grains. Nourishing Traditions by Sally Fallon has some wonderful fermented grains recipes. I once made yogurt buckwheat pancakes from that book that were to die for! You basically soak the buckwheat flour in yogurt over night, then add the other pancake elements, and you have amazing tangy spongy moist pancakes. They were somewhat reminiscent of the Ethiopian Injera bread, only thicker. I highly recommend the book.

But back to sauerkraut! The picture above might be closer to kim chee, actually, as I added daikon radish and jalapenos. I first got turned on to raw, cultured sauerkraut through Cultured, the Berkeley pickle shop that makes wonderful traditional as well as exotic sauerkrauts. Another fantastic source of fermentation inspiration was Sandor Katz, aka "Sandorkraut." He is a self-described "fermentation fetishist." I saw him give a lecture in Berkeley about fermentation a few years ago, where he demonstrated making mead, and wench that I am, I got totally stoked about it. I got his book Wild Fermentation, but really have only made sauerkraut/kim chee and kombucha. I promise to do a post about kombucha soon. Katz' website is here. I also recommend his book The Revolution Will Not Be Microwaved.

Okay, I suppose you'd like a recipe, huh? This is taken from Katz' website:

Sandor Ellix Katz, the creator of this site and the author of Wild Fermentation: The Flavor, Nutrition, and Craft of Live-Culture Foods (Chelsea Green, 2003) has earned the nickname "Sandorkraut" for his love of sauerkraut. This is Sandorkaut's easy sauerkraut recipe, one of more than 90 ferments included in his book.

Timeframe: 1-4 weeks (or more)

Special Equipment:

  • Ceramic crock or food-grade plastic bucket, one-gallon capacity or greater
  • Plate that fits inside crock or bucket
  • One-gallon jug filled with water (or a scrubbed and boiled rock)
  • Cloth cover (like a pillowcase or towel)

Ingredients (for 1 gallon):

  • 5 pounds cabbage
  • 3 tablespoons sea salt

Process:

  1. Chop or grate cabbage, finely or coarsely, with or without hearts, however you like it. I love to mix green and red cabbage to end up with bright pink kraut. Place cabbage in a large bowl as you chop it.
  2. Sprinkle salt on the cabbage as you go. The salt pulls water out of the cabbage (through osmosis), and this creates the brine in which the cabbage can ferment and sour without rotting. The salt also has the effect of keeping the cabbage crunchy, by inhibiting organisms and enzymes that soften it. 3 tablespoons of salt is a rough guideline for 5 pounds of cabbage. I never measure the salt; I just shake some on after I chop up each cabbage. I use more salt in summer, less in winter.
  3. Add other vegetables. Grate carrots for a coleslaw-like kraut. Other vegetables I’ve added include onions, garlic, seaweed, greens, Brussels sprouts, small whole heads of cabbage, turnips, beets, and burdock roots. You can also add fruits (apples, whole or sliced, are classic), and herbs and spices (caraway seeds, dill seeds, celery seeds, and juniper berries are classic, but anything you like will work). Experiment.
  4. Mix ingredients together and pack into crock. Pack just a bit into the crock at a time and tamp it down hard using your fists or any (other) sturdy kitchen implement. The tamping packs the kraut tight in the crock and helps force water out of the cabbage.
  5. 5. Cover kraut with a plate or some other lid that fits snugly inside the crock. Place a clean weight (a glass jug filled with water) on the cover. This weight is to force water out of the cabbage and then keep the cabbage submerged under the brine. Cover the whole thing with a cloth to keep dust and flies out.
  6. Press down on the weight to add pressure to the cabbage and help force water out of it. Continue doing this periodically (as often as you think of it, every few hours), until the brine rises above the cover. This can take up to about 24 hours, as the salt draws water out of the cabbage slowly. Some cabbage, particularly if it is old, simply contains less water. If the brine does not rise above the plate level by the next day, add enough salt water to bring the brine level above the plate. Add about a teaspoon of salt to a cup of water and stir until it’s completely dissolved.
  7. Leave the crock to ferment. I generally store the crock in an unobtrusive corner of the kitchen where I won’t forget about it, but where it won’t be in anybody’s way. You could also store it in a cool basement if you want a slower fermentation that will preserve for longer.
  8. Check the kraut every day or two. The volume reduces as the fermentation proceeds. Sometimes mold appears on the surface. Many books refer to this mold as “scum,” but I prefer to think of it as a bloom. Skim what you can off of the surface; it will break up and you will probably not be able to remove all of it. Don’t worry about this. It’s just a surface phenomenon, a result of contact with the air. The kraut itself is under the anaerobic protection of the brine. Rinse off the plate and the weight. Taste the kraut. Generally it starts to be tangy after a few days, and the taste gets stronger as time passes. In the cool temperatures of a cellar in winter, kraut can keep improving for months and months. In the summer or in a heated room, its life cycle is more rapid. Eventually it becomes soft and the flavor turns less pleasant.
  9. Enjoy. I generally scoop out a bowl- or jarful at a time and keep it in the fridge. I start when the kraut is young and enjoy its evolving flavor over the course of a few weeks. Try the sauerkraut juice that will be left in the bowl after the kraut is eaten. Sauerkraut juice is a rare delicacy and unparalleled digestive tonic. Each time you scoop some kraut out of the crock, you have to repack it carefully. Make sure the kraut is packed tight in the crock, the surface is level, and the cover and weight are clean. Sometimes brine evaporates, so if the kraut is not submerged below brine just add salted water as necessary. Some people preserve kraut by canning and heat-processing it. This can be done; but so much of the power of sauerkraut is its aliveness that I wonder: Why kill it?
  10. Develop a rhythm. I try to start a new batch before the previous batch runs out. I remove the remaining kraut from the crock, repack it with fresh salted cabbage, then pour the old kraut and its juices over the new kraut. This gives the new batch a boost with an active culture starter.

What to do with sauerkraut? I love a scoop in a salad, on top of brown rice or quinoa, with sausauge (of course), or just eaten plain!

Whoo, that was a long 1st post. Please feel free to comment or share.

*I am no kind of medical professional, simply employed by the Natural Foods industry and an avid consumer of nutritional information.

Comments

  1. cool stuff maryssa. I went to a homebrew festival this weekend where i was introduced to mead and sour beer. Ohh my gosh, soooo good. Definitely going to see if my uncle, a bee keeper will give me some honey.

    Really thinking about doing to kraut (the stuff I had piled on a brat this weekend never tasted so good). Thanks for the info, I'm going to do some more research and bug you when I freak out for no reason during the process.

    ReplyDelete
  2. Awesome, Jessica! Let me know how it goes. Just don't freak out too much if a little mold grows on top, it's bound to happen. :) Thanks for checking out my blog!

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  3. Great post! I'm reminded of a market I went to in Budapest many years ago. They had large barrels of every variation of sauerkraut you can imagine: mixes of cabbage, pepper, onion, mushrooms, garlic, cucumber, carrot, and more. It's a good way to preserve food when freezing isn't an option. I look forward to reading more!

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  4. Thanks Z! Glad you're following the blog. One of these years we MUST take a European family food vacation :)

    ReplyDelete

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